The “Quaker Lady Dress”

Taylor Hall is built in the High Victorian Gothic style, which was popular for nineteenth-century  British and American colleges, churches, and state buildings. However, Taylor was built in a monochrome gray stone, which deviates from the emphatic polychromy that was typical of the style. Quaker conventions of plain dress influenced the design of Bryn Mawr’s architecture as well as the ideal image of its student. Francis King’s desire for Hutton to capture the ideal of “Quaker Lady Dress” in the design of Taylor Hall may have been a self-conscious play on the term ​“dress,” which can refer both to a person’s clothing and to the decoration of a building. Just as Bryn Mawr’s founders dressed the campus in a reserved version of High Victorian Gothic style, Joseph Taylor specified in his will that Bryn Mawr students should wear simple clothing and avoid jewelry or frivolous fashions. The refined simplicity of Taylor Hall communicated the guarded education the College would provide. 

Photograph of (from left to right) Merion Hall, unknown building, and Taylor Hall.
Unknown photographer, Taylor and Merion Hall, ​
after 1894. Bryn Mawr College Special Collections, PAB_Taylor_020.​

“There is a certain style of ‘Quaker lady’ dress, which I often see in Phila, which tells the whole story—she has her satin bonnet—her silk dress—her kid gloves—her perfect slippers—but they are made to harmonize with the expression of her face which is both intellectual and holy—so may ‘Taylor College’ look down from its beautiful site upon the passing world and we hear them say ‘just right.’“​

Francis King, letter to Addison Hutton, 1879. Quaker and Special Collections, Haverford College, Thomas Family Papers, MC-962.


A woman in simply Quaker Dress stands, surrounded by birds. She wears a simple dress, shawl, and bonnet, and holds a bag.
Unknown artist ​
Quaker Woman (Elizabeth Fry) with Birds, 19th century (?)​
Wood engraving on gray silk, 13 in. x 9 1/2 in (33.02 cm x 24.13 cm).​
Gift of Helen Dechert​
Bryn Mawr College Special Collections, 1978.8 

This young, Quaker woman, possibly Elizabeth Fry, is simply dressed in an unadorned gown, shawl, and bonnet. Yet, the glossy silk surface conveys the refinement of her clothing. Although today we associate Quakers with frugality, by the end of the nineteenth century, codes of Quaker simplicity permitted such luxuries so long as they avoided excess. Elizabeth Fry (1780-1845) devoted herself to prison and asylum reform. ​

A page from Godey's Lady Book depicting the era's (1880s) current fashions. Two women can be seen, looking down at a type writer. The woman on the left sports an orange dress with white lace detailing. Her figure is emphasized with a corset and bustle. The woman on the right wears a green dress with black lace detailing and buttons running all the way down her side. She also wears a hat.
Unknown illustrator​
“Godey’s Fashions,“ Godey’s Lady Book and Magazine, vol. 110, no. 657, March 1885​
Bryn Mawr Special Collections, AP2.G56​

The colorful, richly finished garments and accessories depicted in these nineteenth-century fashion plates (published in the year Bryn Mawr College opened) provide a sense of the “frivolous” fashions that Joseph Taylor rejected for Bryn Mawr students.

A page from Godey's Lady Book depicting popular fashions of the 1880s. Two women walk alongside eachother, carrying umbrellas. The woman on the left wears dark blue with white detailing at her hem and a dark blue hat. the woman on the right wears an ensemble of browns, with a belt being fastened to her waist and a hat with flowers.
Unknown illustrator​
“Godey’s Fashions,“ Godey’s Lady Book and Magazine, vol. 110, no. 657, March 1885​
Bryn Mawr Special Collections, AP2.G56​