{"id":586,"date":"2022-08-16T18:49:37","date_gmt":"2022-08-16T18:49:37","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/wbbm.digitalprojects.brynmawr.edu\/dev\/?page_id=586"},"modified":"2022-09-07T11:53:22","modified_gmt":"2022-09-07T15:53:22","slug":"dress","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/wbbm.digitalprojects.brynmawr.edu\/why-build\/exhibit\/education\/dress\/","title":{"rendered":"The &#8220;Quaker Lady Dress&#8221;"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p class=\"has-background-color has-text-color has-background wp-block-paragraph\" style=\"background-color:#2e3192\">Taylor Hall is built in the<strong><a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" href=\"https:\/\/wbbm.digitalprojects.brynmawr.edu\/why-build\/reference\/glossary\/\" target=\"_blank\">&nbsp;High Victorian Gothic<\/a><\/strong>&nbsp;style, which was popular for&nbsp;nineteenth-century&nbsp; British and American colleges, churches, and state buildings.&nbsp;However, Taylor was built in a monochrome gray stone, which deviates from the&nbsp;emphatic&nbsp;polychromy&nbsp;that was typical of the style.&nbsp;Quaker conventions of&nbsp;<strong><a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" href=\"https:\/\/wbbm.digitalprojects.brynmawr.edu\/why-build\/reference\/glossary\/\" target=\"_blank\">plain&nbsp;dress<\/a><\/strong>&nbsp;influenced the design of Bryn&nbsp;Mawr\u2019s&nbsp;architecture as well as the ideal&nbsp;image of its student.&nbsp;Francis King\u2019s desire for Hutton to capture the ideal of&nbsp;\u201cQuaker Lady Dress\u201d in the design of Taylor Hall may have been a self-conscious&nbsp;play on the term&nbsp;\u200b\u201cdress,\u201d which can refer both to a person\u2019s clothing and<em>&nbsp;<\/em>to the&nbsp;decoration of a building. Just as Bryn&nbsp;Mawr\u2019s&nbsp;founders dressed&nbsp;the campus in a&nbsp;reserved version of High Victorian Gothic style, Joseph Taylor specified in his will&nbsp;that Bryn&nbsp;Mawr&nbsp;students should wear simple clothing and avoid jewelry or&nbsp;frivolous fashions. The refined&nbsp;<strong><a href=\"https:\/\/wbbm.digitalprojects.brynmawr.edu\/why-build\/reference\/glossary\/\">simplicity<\/a><\/strong>&nbsp;of Taylor Hall communicated the&nbsp;<strong><a href=\"https:\/\/wbbm.digitalprojects.brynmawr.edu\/why-build\/reference\/glossary\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">guarded<\/a><\/strong>&nbsp;education the College would provide.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-columns is-layout-flex wp-container-core-columns-is-layout-8f761849 wp-block-columns-is-layout-flex\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"777\" height=\"589\" src=\"https:\/\/wbbm.digitalprojects.brynmawr.edu\/why-build\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/TaylorMerionHall-low-res.jpg\" alt=\"Photograph of (from left to right) Merion Hall, unknown building, and Taylor Hall.\" class=\"wp-image-1452\" srcset=\"https:\/\/wbbm.digitalprojects.brynmawr.edu\/why-build\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/TaylorMerionHall-low-res.jpg 777w, https:\/\/wbbm.digitalprojects.brynmawr.edu\/why-build\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/TaylorMerionHall-low-res-300x227.jpg 300w, https:\/\/wbbm.digitalprojects.brynmawr.edu\/why-build\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/TaylorMerionHall-low-res-768x582.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 777px) 100vw, 777px\" \/><figcaption>Unknown photographer,&nbsp;Taylor and Merion Hall,&nbsp;\u200b<br>after 1894. Bryn&nbsp;Mawr&nbsp;College Special&nbsp;Collections,&nbsp;PAB_Taylor_020.\u200b<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\">\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">&#8220;There is a certain style of \u2018Quaker lady\u2019 dress,&nbsp;which I often see in Phila, which tells the&nbsp;whole story\u2014she has her satin&nbsp;bonnet\u2014her&nbsp;silk dress\u2014her kid gloves\u2014her perfect&nbsp;slippers\u2014but they are made to harmonize&nbsp;with the expression of her face which is both&nbsp;intellectual and holy\u2014so may \u2018Taylor College\u2019&nbsp;look down from its beautiful site upon the&nbsp;passing world and we hear them say \u2018just&nbsp;right.\u2019\u201c\u200b<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Francis King, letter to Addison Hutton, 1879.&nbsp;Quaker and Special Collections, Haverford&nbsp;College, Thomas Family Papers, MC-962.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator aligncenter has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-columns is-layout-flex wp-container-core-columns-is-layout-8f761849 wp-block-columns-is-layout-flex\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\" style=\"flex-basis:40%\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"241\" height=\"300\" src=\"https:\/\/wbbm.digitalprojects.brynmawr.edu\/why-build\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/1978.8_BMC_f_2.png\" alt=\"A woman in simply Quaker Dress stands, surrounded by birds. She wears a simple dress, shawl, and bonnet, and holds a bag. \" class=\"wp-image-1453\"\/><figcaption>Unknown artist\u202f\u200b<br><em>Quaker Woman (Elizabeth Fry) with Birds<\/em>, 19th century (?)\u200b<br>Wood engraving on gray silk, 13 in. x 9 1\/2 in (33.02 cm x 24.13 cm).\u200b<br>Gift of Helen Dechert\u200b<br>Bryn&nbsp;Mawr&nbsp;College Special Collections, 1978.8\u202f<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\" style=\"flex-basis:60%\">\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><em>This young, Quaker woman, possibly Elizabeth Fry, is simply dressed in an unadorned&nbsp;gown, shawl, and&nbsp;bonnet. Yet, the glossy silk surface conveys the refinement of her&nbsp;clothing. Although today we associate Quakers with frugality, by the end of the&nbsp;nineteenth century, codes of Quaker&nbsp;<strong>simplicity<\/strong>&nbsp;permitted such luxuries so long as they&nbsp;avoided excess. Elizabeth Fry (1780-1845) devoted herself to prison and asylum reform.\u202f\u200b<\/em><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-columns is-layout-flex wp-container-core-columns-is-layout-8f761849 wp-block-columns-is-layout-flex\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\" style=\"flex-basis:40%\">\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">\u200b<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/wbbm.digitalprojects.brynmawr.edu\/why-build\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/Godey1.jpg\" alt=\"A page from Godey's Lady Book depicting the era's (1880s) current fashions. Two women can be seen, looking down at a type writer. The woman on the left sports an orange dress with white lace detailing. Her figure is emphasized with a corset and bustle. The woman on the right wears a green dress with black lace detailing and buttons running all the way down her side. She also wears a hat.\" class=\"wp-image-1455\" width=\"252\" height=\"344\" srcset=\"https:\/\/wbbm.digitalprojects.brynmawr.edu\/why-build\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/Godey1.jpg 479w, https:\/\/wbbm.digitalprojects.brynmawr.edu\/why-build\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/Godey1-219x300.jpg 219w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 252px) 100vw, 252px\" \/><figcaption>Unknown illustrator\u200b<br>&#8220;Godey&#8217;s Fashions,\u201c&nbsp;<em>Godey&#8217;s Lady Book and Magazine,&nbsp;<\/em>vol. 110, no. 657, March&nbsp;1885\u200b<br>Bryn&nbsp;Mawr&nbsp;Special Collections, AP2.G56\u200b<br>\u200b<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><em>The colorful, richly finished garments and accessories depicted in these nineteenth-century fashion plates (published in the year Bryn Mawr College opened) provide a&nbsp;sense of the \u201cfrivolous\u201d fashions that Joseph Taylor rejected for Bryn Mawr&nbsp;students.<\/em><\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\" style=\"flex-basis:60%\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"410\" height=\"671\" src=\"https:\/\/wbbm.digitalprojects.brynmawr.edu\/why-build\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/Godey2.jpg\" alt=\"A page from Godey's Lady Book depicting popular fashions of the 1880s. Two women walk alongside eachother, carrying umbrellas. The woman on the left wears dark blue with white detailing at her hem and a dark blue hat. the woman on the right wears an ensemble of browns, with a belt being fastened to her waist and a hat with flowers. \" class=\"wp-image-1454\" srcset=\"https:\/\/wbbm.digitalprojects.brynmawr.edu\/why-build\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/Godey2.jpg 410w, https:\/\/wbbm.digitalprojects.brynmawr.edu\/why-build\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/Godey2-183x300.jpg 183w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 410px) 100vw, 410px\" \/><figcaption>Unknown illustrator\u200b<br>&#8220;Godey&#8217;s Fashions,\u201c&nbsp;<em>Godey&#8217;s Lady Book and Magazine,&nbsp;<\/em>vol. 110, no. 657, March&nbsp;1885\u200b<br>Bryn&nbsp;Mawr&nbsp;Special Collections, AP2.G56\u200b<br>\u200b<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<div style=\"height:25px\" aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-spacer\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-columns are-vertically-aligned-center is-layout-flex wp-container-core-columns-is-layout-8f761849 wp-block-columns-is-layout-flex\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-vertically-aligned-center is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-buttons is-content-justification-left is-layout-flex wp-container-core-buttons-is-layout-63375db1 wp-block-buttons-is-layout-flex\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-button alignleft has-custom-width wp-block-button__width-50\"><a class=\"wp-block-button__link has-background\" href=\"https:\/\/wbbm.digitalprojects.brynmawr.edu\/why-build\/exhibit\/education\/\" style=\"background-color:#2e3192\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Return to: From Guarded to Worldly Education<\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-vertically-aligned-center is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-buttons is-content-justification-right is-layout-flex wp-container-core-buttons-is-layout-89b4c9e9 wp-block-buttons-is-layout-flex\">\n<div 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wp-block-navigation-link\"><a class=\"wp-block-navigation-item__content\"  href=\"https:\/\/wbbm.digitalprojects.brynmawr.edu\/why-build\/exhibit\/founding\/\" target=\"_blank\"  ><span class=\"wp-block-navigation-item__label\">Introduction<\/span><\/a><\/li><li class=\"wp-block-navigation-item wp-block-navigation-link\"><a class=\"wp-block-navigation-item__content\"  href=\"https:\/\/wbbm.digitalprojects.brynmawr.edu\/why-build\/exhibit\/home\/\" target=\"_blank\"  ><span class=\"wp-block-navigation-item__label\">Home<\/span><\/a><\/li><li class=\"wp-block-navigation-item wp-block-navigation-link\"><a class=\"wp-block-navigation-item__content\"  href=\"https:\/\/wbbm.digitalprojects.brynmawr.edu\/why-build\/exhibit\/health\/\" target=\"_blank\"  ><span class=\"wp-block-navigation-item__label\">Health<\/span><\/a><\/li><li class=\"wp-block-navigation-item wp-block-navigation-link\"><a class=\"wp-block-navigation-item__content\"  href=\"https:\/\/wbbm.digitalprojects.brynmawr.edu\/why-build\/exhibit\/imagining\/\" target=\"_blank\"  ><span class=\"wp-block-navigation-item__label\">Imagining Bryn Mawr<\/span><\/a><\/li><\/ul>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div><\/nav>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Taylor Hall is built in the&nbsp;High Victorian Gothic&nbsp;style, which was popular for&nbsp;nineteenth-century&nbsp; British and American colleges, churches, and state buildings.&nbsp;However, Taylor was built in a monochrome gray stone, which deviates from the&nbsp;emphatic&nbsp;polychromy&nbsp;that was typical of the style.&nbsp;Quaker conventions of&nbsp;plain&nbsp;dress&nbsp;influenced the design of Bryn&nbsp;Mawr\u2019s&nbsp;architecture as well as the ideal&nbsp;image of its student.&nbsp;Francis King\u2019s desire for Hutton [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"parent":133,"menu_order":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","template":"templates\/template-full-width.php","meta":{"footnotes":""},"class_list":["post-586","page","type-page","status-publish","hentry"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/wbbm.digitalprojects.brynmawr.edu\/why-build\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/586","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/wbbm.digitalprojects.brynmawr.edu\/why-build\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/wbbm.digitalprojects.brynmawr.edu\/why-build\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/page"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/wbbm.digitalprojects.brynmawr.edu\/why-build\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/wbbm.digitalprojects.brynmawr.edu\/why-build\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=586"}],"version-history":[{"count":11,"href":"https:\/\/wbbm.digitalprojects.brynmawr.edu\/why-build\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/586\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1631,"href":"https:\/\/wbbm.digitalprojects.brynmawr.edu\/why-build\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/586\/revisions\/1631"}],"up":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/wbbm.digitalprojects.brynmawr.edu\/why-build\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/133"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/wbbm.digitalprojects.brynmawr.edu\/why-build\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=586"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}